A Peace Corps learning adventure in the Ukraine

October 30, 2007

Dear All,

It has been a long time since my last email, I know.  Thanks to all of you who have kept in touch and checked in to see if I still was alive!  Life has gotten very busy since the end of summer, and my technological access has gotten a little complicated, so it has not been easy to write and send the longer letters.  These shall begin arriving in your email boxes again as soon as I get my home internet hooked up - which I am told could be next week, next month..... or next year. 

I can tell you that I have settled into my own apartment, and love it.  I still am close to my host family - physically as well as emotionally, and we see each other every day.  The night before last was Klymentia's birthday; she wanted homemade, American-style hamburgers and fries - so I made 'em.  We have McDonald's here, so I wanted her to see how different the homemade variety was.  Emily's christening was about a month ago; it, too, was interesting - and I finally got to meet many of Ivanka's relatives.  I also have begun to learn a lot more about Michael's story.  He is Belgian-Ukrainian and moved here after independence to run a radio station.  he never intended to stay, but met Ivanka - and now they have five children....

My apartment is VERY comfortable, with plenty of heat and hot water on demand.  I do get satellite television, although 90% of that is sex targeting muslim/middle-eastern countries.  There are a few channels, however, that are very good:  Al Jazeera/English (very good and balanced coverage), BBC International (mostly news), CCTV (Chinese news and specials: the propaganda is obvious, but what television doesn't have it?!  And the specials on culture, geography, etc. are great.  Must say, their special on Tibet was revealing, and their coverage on the recent ruckus over the Dalai Lama receiving the Congressional medal even more so...).  Finally, my favorite channel is Greek educational television.  It is very good, with lots of programs from all over the world, including English.  Friday night is classic American movie night - they are showing films from the film noir era.  Luckily the programs are subtitled and not dubbed, so I get to enjoy them.  It was weird watching Fred Astaire and Ginger Rodgers dance across the screen.....)

Work has kicked into full gear.  Especially interesting over the past couple of weeks has been the start of the cultural planning process.  It seems I am involved in both the local and the national initiatives, which is very exciting.  Last week I attended a three day conference with folks from all over Ukraine, Eastern and Central Europe and had the opportunity to make some great contacts - and to discover how relevant my skill sets will be here:  the anthropological, the arts and the whole systems.  I'll need it all!    It seems the Europeans and the politicos in Kyiv are hoping we create a model in L'viv that can serve the rest of Ukraine and some of the CIS countries as well. 

Am beginning to get a sense of the part of the Ukrainian mindset that is counterproductive  to its own stated goals - a lot of distrust (of everything), little sense of self-empowerment and, as a result, little belief in or ability to vision.  Couple these with the ever-present remnants of a system that is hierarchical and believes strongly in the concept of 'expert.'  And experts who have little sense of acting for the larger good.  This will be interesting....

I also am doing some extra tasks for the Peace Corps, both acting as regional coordinator around all safety and security issues and serving on the USAID grant committee for funding for Peace Corps projects in Ukraine.  For the latter, I go to Kyiv (next week) for four days.  Reminds me of the old days at the Commission and sitting through three or four days of grant review panels.  Only this time, I'll be doing it in Kyiv.

We are in the midst of some beautiful, Fall weather - sunny skies and beautiful yellow leaves on the trees.  Mushroom season is in full tilt (wish I liked 'em), and the bazaars are full of so many different varieties.  Apprehensive about winter, and we shall see.....

Hopefully, more to you all soon.